A 15-year-old's Journal from 1910

Submitted by Aldin Adkins:

 

As my first post-Inn project I transcribed Nanan’s – my paternal grandmother, Grace Olcott Rathbone’s – Journal of her 1910 train trip to, through, and back from California. She was fifteen at the time, and already writing like an adult.  In it there are cameo appearances by Haley’s Comet, Mark Twain, King Edward VIII, King George V, Queen Victoria, Mill Valley, Mount Tamalpais, Chinamen, Indians, and various and sundry flowers, landscapes and animals.

I have transcribed exactly as written, without “sic’s” for the very occasional misspellings or grammatical mistakes, and with the original page numbering and page breaks. As you will see there are occasional lacunae which seemed to have contained some tantalizing material which just isn’t there – not illegible, but totally missing.

I am sending this to family, and to friends in West Marin who may have an interest because it is about California and because my Grandmother Nanan was, I believe, a good writer and story teller. I hope you agree.

If you like this one, i am going to do her 1907 Diary from NYC, which is even more exciting including burglaries and motorcycle police chase scenes (the cops actually are on horses, chasing motorcycles exceeding the speed limit in Central Park).

 

* * * 

Jo. Book

         For

Trip to California

         April 7th to May 19th 1910

 

Grace Olcott Rathbone

 

(1)

….and then retired for the night. I had the lower berth and every few minutes popped up my head to look out the window.  This is the first time that Peggy and I have ever spent the night on the train and I enjoy it very much although the train seems to rush along at a terrific rate of speed. It does seem wonderful that we have really started for beautiful flowery California, the land of perpetual bloon (according to Mr. Wilson).

(2)

Nathan took Peg and me all over their attractive house and through the seminary grounds &building. Then he took us to a baseball game which we enjoyed very much. Leter we had tea and then bade a reluctant farewell to Aunt Annie and Nathan. Uncle Jim drove to the hotel with us, pointing out the things of interest on the way.  It was so nice to see the McClures and I like Nathan better than ever. From  (go back to (3)…

(3)

what we heard Jim Jr. can not be all that well.  Last fall in England he had some operation on his knee &has not yet fully recovered. Too bad!

         Our train left Chicago at seven o’clock & we do not disembark again until we reach San Francisco! We dined on the train and played hearts before retiring.

         Mr. Wilson kindly gave Peg & me a box of candy to-night. It was very nice of him.

(4)

         …gave us some oranges.

         We played some “Hearts” thi evening but Peg retired early with a tummy ache.  Mother went with her but Father and I stayed up late & read.  I am at present perusing “Ramona” by Helen Jackson and “The Head Coach” by Ralph D. Paine, both of which I think fine.

(5)

….vegetation – the lack of trees seems very queer – but the great red rocks became more numerous & wonderful and there was no lack of snow touched mountains.  We went through two Canyons Echo &Weber – I hope that the latter is correct.  Both canyons were wonderful &beautiful with high red mountains walling them in.  We saw the “Devils” slide a most interesting thing formedfrom great pieces of stone jutted out of the mountain

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(from top to bottom between these was left a narrow hollow for all the world like a toboggan slide). We stopped at Ogden during the afternoon.  It is beautifully situated amid snow mountains.  At about 6:30 in the afternoon we reached the Great Salt Lake.  We crossed nearly in the middle of it on about 12 miles of trestle.

Spend part of Tuesday in the observation car.

I finished “The Head Coach” & “Ramona.”

(7)

We saw lots of sheep today. Once during the afternoon we stopped on a sort of marshy plain to wait for another train. While there we heard some lovely bird notes & later saw one of the birds – at least Mother & Peggy saw it.  It was a red breasted blackbird.  During the afternoon we could see at the same time snow capped mountains & blooming trees.

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…wonderful lumber & green mountain region.  Several times we had glimpses of scenery of a grandeur that I had not thought could exist.  Once we looked straight down two-thousand (2000) feet into the Canyon and saw at the bottom a green river which looked like a narrow ribbon.  On the other side rose mountains.  We saw many rushing mountain torrents.  IT was in this region that gold was first discovered and we saw many spots that

(9)

Were perfectly barren, having been thoroughly mined for gold.  W came down & down & reached a most beautiful country of verdant hills, glorious views, & flowers.  Gradually the land became flatter and we saw orchards, some in bloom, others through with that.  Mr. Bartnett spent the afternoon with us & he knows all about California.  He told us among other things that there

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Train the fruit trees to grow small so that the fruit can be plucked from the ground.  We stopped at Sacramento this afternoon. There is a very ice Englishman on the train.  After a while we came to a stretch of water which we crossed, with four other trains, on the largest ferry boat in the world.  We had supper at this time.  There was a glorious sunset.  The train made one stop near San Francisco

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and there some friends of Mr. Wilsons’ came on the train.  At Oakland everyone left the ferry train and took the ferry for San Francisco.  Then came the deluge.  Mr. Wilson introduced all his friends to us.  There were Mr. Cooper (Iliked him best of all), Mr. Brown (also very nice), Mr.Rosenbaum, Mr. Rafael, Mr. Wyle, Mr. Payton, & Mr. Smith – perhaps more but I don’t remember them. A reporter pounced on Father, Mr. Wilson & Mr. Wehram & as soon as we landed, carried them off to be photographed.

(12)

Mr. Wyle gave Mother a bunch of gorgeous red tulips & Mr. Brown gave Peg & me each a bunch of beautiful violets.  Then they all escorted us to our hotel (well named the Palace) in a trolley car.  There they left us.  We had a good laugh over out overwhelming reception, a little supper served in our rooms and then to bed.  I forgot to say that while in the mountains we ran into a hard but brief snowstorm.  And I want to mention the variety of flowers of all colors, pink, yellow, &white.

(13)

We saw blooming rose vines & rose trees and wonderfully high geranimum &daisy bushes.  As we went along in the train the banks of the road wer covered with the beautiful, golden California poppies.  I spoke of a nice Englishman’s being on the train.  We overheard some conversation of his one day & from it gathered that he lives in China.  He is quite attractive in looks with broad shoulders & a sunburned face.

(14)

…fleurs-de-lis.  Around the officers houses & the barracks were snowy calla lilies &blooming rose vines.  Then there was a most lovely view of the Golden Gate and the tender hills opposite.  If I was a soldier I should ask nothing better than to be staionedon the Praesidio among the greenness &flowers & spicy fragrance of the eucalyptus groves.  Well, we left the Praesidio & went into the glorious Golden Gate Park which covers 2,500 acres.  The park is made

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up of masses of trees of all sorts, green fields, & playgrounds, all kinds of flowers and beautiful little blue lakes with swans floating on them.  When we left there we went along the Ocean Boulevard, gazing at the gray white capped Pacific which was pretty rough.  We dismounted at the Cliff House to watch the Sea Lions on the rocks.   There seemed to be hundreds of the great yellowish creatures & they kept up a continual barking.

(16)

After watching the Sea Lions for some time we returned to the Palace for lunch.

         After lunch we went out in a trolley car on which was a cunning baby.  At the Golden Gate Park we left the trolley & walked into the beautiful grounds.  We went through a small museum & then walked on to a charming little Japanese tea garden.  Its grounds were laid out in the lovely, quaint Japanese was.  It had

(17)

A thoroughly Japanese little house, & several fascinating little rustic houses with roofs overgrown with litchen &wisteria. We sat in one of these houses, gazing down into a pool of water filled with gold fish, and were served with Japanese tea, in tiny Japanese bowls, by a Japanese Geisha Girl in a native dress.  We also were given delicious rice cakes.  Of al places in the world I should like best to visit Japan & as Mother & Peggy feel this way too, we

(18)

had a most enjoyable afternoon.  After having tea, we returned to the hotel.  Father came in a little before seven o’clock & we all dined together.  After dinner two guides took us & four other people to China-town.  It was most interesting but one had the feeling that the people  wer just for the benefit of the tourists – something the same as at the island of Marken in Holland.  The Chinese men, with whom the streets swarmed, were

(19)

most interesting in their loose garments & with such long thin curls, which hung sometimes below their knees.  First we visited a shop kept by the sisters of Mrs. Howard Gould & her husband a Chinaman.  Then we went to other places more or less interesting. One of the most interesting was a Chinese Pharmacy where herb prescriptions are put up for the sick.  We watched one being put up.  Then we visited

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a Chinese Market & saw the odd kinds of food there.  A Chinese jeweler’s shop where we watched the Chinamen skillfully fashioning gold rings etc., was also very interesting.  We visited a Chinese Joss House, or temple, where after praying for some time the priest, if he was one, predicted a happy fortune for the party.  Then we visited a Chinese family – or part of one – a pretty girl of sixteen & her little

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brothers, or sisters, or mixed, one of them an attractive child of about five & the other a cunning baby of about a year.  Right in the next room – if the stuffy den could be so called – we watched a man smoking opium in his bunk.  This seemed to me  like watching a man intoxicating himself but Father says that the man probably only smokes for the benefit of the tourists.  We heard a musician perform wonderfully on all sorts of queer instruments & then home & to bed at around 10:30

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…to the Mill Valley Station long before the train was to start.  At 2:49 the little mountain train left the station & plunged into a fragrant tunnel of trees, whose branches almost touched us on either side.  There were loasds of flowers too, wild lilacs, red mountain , and other pink, blue, yellow, & white.  After a while we emerged for a few minute, seeming to run on air &could look straight down beside

(23)

the car into a green valley beneath.  After a while we could  look up at a peak to which we were going, so far & straight above us that it made me dizzy to look at it. Then we left the trees behindus & could gaze down & away upon San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate & the Pacific.  Oh it was a wonderful view.  The little railroad is said to be the crookedest in the world & it surely deserves this title, curving

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& bending every few feet. As we ascended higher & higher the views became more & more lovely.  At last the little train came to a stop at the Tamalpais Tavern & we took the steep, though short, walk to the summit of the mountain.  The view was superb – it seemed like gazing down upon the Earth from an airoplane.  San Francisco, the Harbor, the Golden Gate, & the Pacific lay spread on one side & on the other the beautiful green

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country dotted with villages & towns.  Mother, Peg, & I each took a glass of lemonade before starting down.  The return trip was made safely & we reached the hotel at about twenty minutes of seven.  Father, Mother, Peggy, and I dined in our rooms and evening & afterwards played “Hearts”.

(26)

….returned to the hotel.

         Just before dinner a glorious box of flowers from Mr. Peyton came for Mother with Congratulations on her anniversary.  There were fragrant white lilacs, & beautiful white, yellow & blue iris.  We dined downstairs.

(27)

… Bernard, who is 6 ft. tall!! He is at school at Groton.

         On returning to the Hotel we found a box of dewy beautifyl pink roses for Mother from Mr. Cooper with “belated congratulations.”

         We spent the remainder of the afternoon in the hotel.

         We four dined downstairs.  Bernard Peyton must get his height from his Father who is 6 ft. 3 ins. tall, quite thin, & very nice.

(28)

…reached the station we found to our horror that we had half an hour to wait. When the train started it was very hot.  We went through Santa Clara Valley, one of the most fertile spots in California.  An elderly lady named Mr. Darling made friends with Mother & talked steadily to her and Father until we reached Del Monte at about 5:30.  There we left the train, got into an omnibus, and drove

(29)

Through beautiful grounds to the Hotel Del Monte.  There we secured rooms, washed & dressed and had dinner.  Afterwards Mr. Harvey, Mr. Cooper’s Father-in-law, came up and spoke to us. He and Mrs. Harvey are staying here.  Mr. Harvey took us to his rooms where we met his wife & spent the evening. 

I forgot to say that in our rooms we found  a beautiful bunch of

(30)

Yellow and blue iris sent by Mr. Platt an aged friend of Fathers.

         Peggy & I are crazy to go back to San Francisco later but Mother & Father think not.

(31)

…whose names I do not remember.  We saw thousands of tiny fish and several large ones darting about far beneath us.  One of these was a perfect beauty, all a glistening greenish blue.  It was the most interesting experience imaginable seeing the denizens and vegetation of the sea, the former going unconcernedly about their business. 

         After returning from our sea trip we took a beautiful  drive in the motor through the warm, fragrant

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country.  We saw a field of goats with little kids.  There was an abundance of trees but only about two varities of them – live oaks and pines.  Then there were the birds whose notes filled the air.  We saw lots of blue jays and some jetty blackbirds with scarlet spots on their wings.  We also saw many ground squirrels.  Our nice chauffeur whose name is Paul is devoted to flowers and we stopped

(33)

many times to pick them.  Oh such flowers of all sizes and shades.  I do not know the names of half that we picked but these are some of them: two varities of lupine, yellow wild pansies, lots of blue grass, bright red Indians paint brush, Baby Blue Eyes, a lover flower , wild lettuce, yellow daisies and gold back fern.  This fern is a dainty little thing with a pollen covered back.  If you press this back on some dark

(34)

Material it will leave a perfect imprint of the fern.  We returned to the hotel for lunch.

         After lunch we started off in the auto to take the famous “17 mile drive”.  First however we visited the Praesidio.  The beginning of the drive was lovely and we made our first stop at a grove of cypress trees close by the ocean.  The trees were most unique in appearance and it is said that their duplicate can only be found in the

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Holy Land.  After examining these trees we ran across the road & scrambled down the rocks to a little beach.  Mother did not come here. Now we were close by the green and white breakers and could drink in the salt tangy air.  On the beach we found all manner of treasures – dry sea weed of different kinds some yards long & tough & thin like a raw-hide whip lash

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and another a foot or two long & hollow, so that you can blow through it and make a trumpet like noise.  Then there were shells of all varieties, some the beautiful mother-of-pearl abalone shells and others white & shaped like pointed hats.  Also we found beautiful snow white and lavandar coral moss, some pieces of one color some of the other.  We gathered as many of these treasures as

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we had room & time for and then returned to the motor.  As we moved along between snowy sand-dunes and gnarled old cypress trees, a cold heavy fog rolled in from the Pacific.  It was so heavy that we could get none of the beautiful views, but for a while we continued on the drive.  Our next stop was made in order to gather a great bunch of wild purple iris.   After a time we left the drive

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and visited the quaint old Carmel Mission founded by Padre Junipero Serra.  From there we returned to Monterrey where Paul pointed out the places of note, among them a house where Robert Louis Stevenson lived.  Then we returned to the hotel here.  There are the most wonderful  flowers at this hotel.  Blooming rose vines some with rich red, & others with great tea roses.

(39)

…climb over the building.  There is a wonderful helitrope vine whose perfume fills the air and over some of the doorways are festoons and festoons of tiny, white, deliciously fragrant roses.  Also a holly tree covered with red berries.  During the morning we noticed real fern trees.

         I forgot to say that during the afternoon we stopped in the motor and gathered great bunches of the fragrant wild lilacs.  We also plucked some wild morn-

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ing-glories, wild sunflowers and other lovely wild flowers and other lovely wild flowers.

         After dinner we all got into the omnibus and drove down to the station. Then Father said goodby to us and boarded the train for San Francisco.  We returned to the hotel.

(41)

Peggy and I strolled down to the Beach and back again.

         Before dinner a telegram came from Father saying that as he may soon be through at San Francisco we had better go right on to Santa Barbara.  So we changed our plans so as to leave to-morrow.

         Our old friend Mr. Loran Lewis is staying at this hotel.  We have not seen him to speak to. Before going to the beach we visited the interesting Hotel Cactus of Arizone Garden.

(42)

…geraniums.  We arrived at a lovely hour for there was a bright rose sunset in the west.  The mountains were stained amythist and the sea was cream with blues and greens looking through.  As we drove up the palm bordered drive in the midst of this beautiful picture we all thought that Santa Barbara was pretty close to heaven.

(43)

…his waist, and his sandaled and otherwise bare feet.  After leaving the Mission we took the drive which is truly beautiful.  Some of the curves were exceedingly sharp and there were canyons to gaze down into.  We reached the Hotel at around 6 o’clock after a delightful day.

         We dined in our rooms on account of sleepiness.

         Mother received a letter from Father saying that it would be unwise to reorganize the company on the original plan  and that it now remains to be decided whether organizing on a new basis would be worthwhile.

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… and on reaching the valley in went right through the shallow Santa Ynez River.  Now we came to the ranches.  They wer tremendous, the San Marcos Ranch containing 75,000 acres.  These ranches were beautifully situated, with lovely mountain views.  They are principally cattle ranches and so we saw cows & calves galore.  However the chief inhabitants appeared to be ground squirrels. We had a very nice lunch at a tiny

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inn called Alamo Pintallo – or something on that order.  At about 2:30 we started on our homeward journey.  This was made through the Gaviota Pass.  We did very little climbing but ran along beneath the green & wooded mountains.  On the way we came upon the largest flock of sheep that I have ever seen.  After a time we left the trees & drove beneath great walls & mountains of curious rock formation.  At last we came out upon the

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grand ocean.  Now our road lay between great fields of fragrant vivid wild mustard, so tall that leaning back a little way, one could see nothing but masses of the yellow  flowers against the equally vivid blue sky.   We reached home after a wonderful day at around 6 o’clock and dined in our rooms.

         Mother received a telegram from Father saying that he will probably be in San Francisco for some time. That means reorganization. Goody!

(49)

…experts.  As it was there were some exciting moments – the thunder of horses hoofs was inspiring.  Many times the ball was passed by or the blow intended for it hit the leg of some unfortunate horse.  Notwithstanding this most of the horses appeared to enjoy the game.  One horse sat down unexpectedly and slid for quite a distance.  Its rider jumped nimbly off but the horse did not roll over.  The whites were the victors as they scored on goal to their opponents 0.  After the

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game was over we drove back to the hotel.

         After dinner the ballroom was open for dancing & Mother, Peggy, and I sat in the balcony to watch.  After a long time one couple ventured and at last there was the stupendous number of seven couples on the floor at once!!

         There were two Englishmen watching the Polo & we overheard a bit of their conversation.  To me there is nothing more charming than thw way that the English speak.

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.. will probably have a free week while the company considers the offer.  If the Company then accepts it Father will have to go back to San Francisco for a while.  If not we will leave directly for the East.  Let us hope that the Company will accept!!

(52)

Before reaching Los Angeles we stopped at te Lawston Ostrich Farm.  This was most interesting.  We were taken through snd shown the great ugly birds behind flimsy fences.  The males are black & the females a pretty light brown.  Many of them had eggs which the mother covers during the day and the Father at night. It takes these eggs forty days to hatch.  Some are placed in an incubator. An

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ostrich mates for life & we saw many happy pairs named after presidents & monarchs. Ostriches live to be about 65 years old but have been known to live to a hundred.  They are plucked every nine months & lay about 10-15 eggs at a time.  We saw some dear little ostrich chicks 3-14 days old.  For about seven months these chicks grow at the rate of a foot a month!  Our guide fed

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a small orange to a grown bird & he swallowed it whole & took a good while to do it.  The guide also fed the ostriches corn.  The largest, heaviest, & fiercest of the ostriches is named Emperor William!  After leaving this interesting place we returned to the hotel, dined & went to our rooms.

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…abalone shells and some sea urchins & sea cucumbers but scarcely a starfish.  But the beautiful sea flowers & mosses were what I liked the best.  There were blue sea violets, a pretty pink called sea heather, I think, a bright green called Irish moss, and a brown moss.  Altogether it was a very lovely trip.

         The Hermosa started homeward at 3:15.  The water was still rough but the sea was choppy

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and we were not so much afflicted with the sickening roll.  In fact I sustained no discomfort.  We saw quite a good many flying fish – the first time I have seen any.  We reached San Pedro safely at about 5:30 & Los Angeles about an hour leter.  We dined in the café & then to our rooms.

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…lovely (?) ladies riding spirited (?) ponies and best of all a little procession of elephants & one of camels.

         The afternoon was quiet but there was on event – a stopped runaway horse.  We did not see anything of the runaway itself but never mind such a triffle as that.

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…bed for me at night.  The rooms are pretty noisy thoughfor the hotel seems to be situated in the business part of the city with car lines running past it.  In addition to this some work is being done in a neighboring lot.

(59)

…resembled the old missions in almost every particular and is the most fascinating hotel I have even seen.  Its gray walls are ivy clad in part and our rooms look out onto the lovely court.

         After dinner we sat out for a while and saw a great shooting star – a very bright one.

(60)

In the distance we saw a snowy peaked mountain called Old Baldy.  On descending the mountain we drove to the hotel which we reached before six o’clock.

         There was a dance at the hotel this evening. It was patronized and we should have enjoyed it had not the sort of deputy manages of the hotel introduced two women to us, one of whom stuck for the remainder of the evening.

         Late to bed.

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At last we managed to slip away from her and we hid in a secluded corner until she disappeared.  Then we came out for a little while before going to our rooms.

         I am reading “The Prince and the Pauper” by Mark Twain.  It is very enjoyable.

(62)

…us a minute to get downstairs to our dinner.  Afterwards we sat in the reading room for a while perusing some impossibly dull magazines.

(63)

…dinner we again went to the reading room and tried to peruse the full magazines while a woman and a little boy carried on a continuous conversation.

         I forgot to say that this morning we saw that “Tent City” which is occupied during the summer.

(64)

...caught in the light and were turned to rose.  There was such a strong undertow that waves rolled out as well as in and when tow met each other it was with a crash as of armored knights in battle.  The incoming wave generally conquered but more than once it was forced back by the other.  We watched this glorious battle until the sun went down & then went back to the hotel to dress and dine.

(65)

…we were playing “Hearts” in the card room when Mrs. Phail dropped in for a chat with us.  She did not stay very long either.

(66)

…bait gave out and it was around six o’clock we thought that we had better start for home.  To our horror  just as the engine started a spring broke! The man worked and worked but all to no purpose.  There was a glorious sunset which we watched with anxious hearts.  At last the spring was fixed & our spirits bounded up and we were about to move off when the spring broke again.  Despair seized us, for it was already

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growing dusk and  Point Loma was quite a bit away.  There were oars on board the boat but it would take hours to row to shore & even then it would be difficult to find a landing place.  The swells seemed to grow larger & larger & the glow in the west was fading.  Then the spring was again pronounced fixed and the engine was again started.  It died, started again, & again died.  Once more it was started but this time it went and amid

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heartfelt thanksgivings the boat moved again.  Oh, what joy it was to fell the little craft forging through the water and on rounding Point Loma we really began to enjoy ourselves.  It was past eight o’clock when we reached San Diego & there we had a delicious dinner a the Union Café.  Then we returned to the Hotel del Coronado by trolleys and ferry and tumbled sleepily into bed after a very lively day.

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…saw to our surprise that Edward VII Kind of England died last night at 11:45.  We did not even know of his illness but it seems that he has been sick for about a week, seriously so, of pneumonia, for the last three days.  His son & daughter in law succeed him as George V and Queen Mary.  Poor Alexdndra! I am only fifteen but can recollect the death of two British Sovereigns – Queen Vistoria and King Edward.

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…situated at the base of the indescribably beautiful mountains with occasional views of the ocean.  The grounds are delightful and there is a beautiful Venetian Bath and an equally lovely vistarry thing.

         After seeing these places we returned to the hotel and had dinner.

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After a time the sky changed.  Some of the clouds became gray and others a peculiar brown.  From the clouds to the horizon was a sweep of clear sky which was divided into three layers: the first blue, the second green, and the third yellow.

         We dined in our rooms to-night and passed a quiet evening. 

         The Fruit Producers Convention left here to-day.

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…see Halley’s Comet, which rised in the East at about three o’clock.  We read and wrote and talked and the time passed quickly.  I lay on the bed for a while & then arose again.  We thought of going up onto the roof garden or out onto the grounds to see the comet but did not quite like to do either of these.  Before we knew it it was Midnight.

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…tree.  The vine is about 68 years old and one year it produced 20 tons of grapes! After seeing the vine & the attractive though dirty children who compose the family of its owner we left & drove back by the way of Miramar & Montecito.  Were more than ever impressed by the beautiful flowers.  It was nearly seven o’clock by the time we reached the Potter & we dined in our rooms.  After dinner came a telegram from Father saying that we start East from Los Angeles on the 14th & that it will be impossible for us to stop off at the Grand Canyon! Horrors!

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…the Lawston Ostrich Farm on the way.  There were shown all over again. The bird named “King Edward” is being rechristened “George V”.  On leaving there we drove back to Los Angeles & went through the beautiful Elysian Park.  It consists of a high hill which commands a glorious view of the beautiful mountains.  From it we witnessed the glories of a brilliant rose & gold sunset.

         Dined at the Hotel, “Hearts” & to bed rather late.

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attractive suburb of Los Angeles.  On reaching the Alexdria again we dined in the grill and then played “Hearts” during the evening.

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…believe that we were still in California.  It reminded me of E.B. White’sdescription of the Arizona Desert, especially when the mountains grow hard & boldly outlined against the sky just after the brilliant sunset.  We played “Hearts” this evening & then went to bed, Peg & I sharing one stateroom & Mother & Father the other.

         To-day I read Kate W. Wiggins charming “Susanna & Sue” & E.E. Hales’s fine “The Man without a Country” and started Ralph Connor’s splendid book “The Doctor”.

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…a vividly red soil dotted with green scrub.  All around were the most curious & wonderful rock formations, some of them blending red, gray &black tints.  We saw many Indians during the day, first the Navahos & then the Pueblos, the in surrectionists.  The houses they live in  which we saw were wretched affairs of clay sticks.  One of the Indian women had a little papoose on her back.  After dinner, when it was nearly dusk, we saw four or five costumed Indians riding over

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the plains.  It was a splendid & picturesque sight but later on we trembled on account of the Redskins.  It came about this way:  Peggy and I were undressing & Mother was with us, when the train stopped beside several campfires.  Behind these fires stood a freight train & beneath it a pile of rubbish.  About both were dark figures which may possibly have been cow-boys but which struck us a being Indians.  Some of them came close to tus and some did some horrid whooping – oh with what

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unutterable horror an isolated ranchman must hear that sound – but I suppose that they are brave.  At any rate we were heartily glad when the train moved on.  We went to bed & to sleep notwithstanding the Indians.

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Turquoise & silver Indian rings for Peggy and a necklace of Mexican silver filigree, and a beautiful Arizona ruby set I a gold filigree ring for me.  Mother purchased a Navaho blanket.

         During the day we saw many flocks of sheep belonging o the Navahos

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…end of the World would come & if so what would feel like, and then I fell asleep.

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…”Hearts” but were interrupted by a telephone call from Mr. Jackson who wanted to come over here with Mrs. Moran for a game of Bridge & afterwards go to the Casino to see the Comet.  This plan was carried out and so Peg & I retired fairly early.  It was about the time when, according to the astronomers, we were passing through the tail of the comet.  We looked out of the window but could see nothing but the clear moon – light and glimmering stars.  So we went to bed & to sleep.

Finis

 

 

 

 

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  • Over-the-Hill-Gang: Rides and Errands
  • West Marin Share: Reuse materials; share information and services -  a money free zone
  • West Marin Marketplace: rentals; things and services for sale
  • Tending the Wild Collaborative: An Ethnobiology Project
  • Local Food System Initiative: Food and garden related shares and information
  • Think Local West Marin: Appreciation and applause for our neighbors
  • Commons Connect Tech Support: Help with our Web site features
  • Volunteering Opportunities in West Marin: Help our local non-profits

 

 

 

 

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